Tag: Africa

September 13 – 20, 2024 Masai Mara to the Swahili Coast, Kenya

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After navigating the quirky Tanzanian/Kenyan border crossing, we boarded our short flight, more like a hop, to the Masai Mara – our last stop on the safari circuit.  We landed on the remote Mara Ol Kiombo airstrip (unpaved and in a swirl of dust) and were greeted by our guides from the Mara Expedition Camp, Julius and his apprentice Diana.  The Great Plains Conservation land cruiser was outfitted such that it beckoned a bygone era with the wood detailing and leather accessories.  

I had been pining over Great Plains Conservation for years, drifting into a sort of dream state, imagining the golden age of exploration complete with campaign furniture and vast plains teaming with game as far as the eye could see.  Founded by National Geographic photographers Derek and Beverly Joubert, they own a string of lodges stretching from Kenya to the Okavango Delta.  They fund anti-poaching units and private concessions; not only do you get an exclusive experience, but you also enjoy the privacy of the concessions which is like eating at a rugged Michelin Star restaurant – with the added satisfaction of knowing the money you are spending is helping to protect fragile wildlife corridors.  

As we drove across the plains, the views emerged into what I had imagined; you don’t think there is game anywhere because the horizon seems unreachable.  We stopped off for a bush tea break under the shade of a fig tree, stretching our legs and adjusting our senses to the calm. 

When we arrived at the Mara Expedition Camp it felt as though we had walked through a portal in time: Huge black and white animal prints adorned the walls that surrounded a collection of african furniture and artifacts –  leather, teak, including massive moroccan lamps harking back to the colonial days, all on display in a flourish of understated class.  There are only six tents in all, with the main lodge and dining area set in a snug grove of acacia trees. 

Our tent was a short yet meandering walk from the main area.  It was set on a polished wood platform, complete with a campaign desk, a leather journal, USB plugs and our own wi-fi; technology being present but obscured by the furniture design.  Trunks and rugs adorned the terrace and tent allowing one to go about in barefoot bliss. The bathroom, shower and dressing area were outfitted with polished brass fittings including such details as animal faces carved into the brass plugs.  We had a lovely teak table and director chairs on the terrace and even the zipper pulls were fitted with colorful Masai beading.  

The area was absent the normal invasion of flies (including the dreaded tetse) and it was off-season for the mosquitoes.  The breeze carried the woody scent of acacia through the tent and it felt good to be able to breathe so deeply; I felt a sense of tranquility I hadn’t felt in days, the only rush being a band of baboons that went  hurtling past the tent.  

This was bohemian living – African style.  

Bob unfortunately had taken ill with a balance issue he had been battling for several months.  The bush flights were bumpy and in some cases we had to make multiple stops to drop passengers off at different airstrips.  Add to that the immense amount of off-road jolting for the last several days, caused his condition to reach a tipping point.  On the bright side he had an outstanding venue in which to recuperate and would hopefully get out on safari the next day.  

After lunch, I was happy to lounge around the main area as Bob got a massage; other guests must have been out as I had the whole area to myself🥰

I took time walking around the grounds which was safe during the day. There was an electric fence around the perimeter to keep the elephants and giraffe at bay, otherwise the trees would have been stripped and who knows what other damage could occur.  Predators were still allowed to roam freely though, and after dark lions have killed game near the dining tent…while the guests were having dinner.  A rare occurrence but still gives you a sort of unnerving pause just the same. 

After a nap, we enjoyed a lovely dinner with the lodge fire blazing nearby and the kerosene lanterns dotted everywhere.  The service and food were superb, and I found the meals in Africa to be meat (or vegan options), vegetables and rice with woody undertones of African spices and a simple portion of desert.  There was a group of Americans at the larger table and the night lit up with laughter.  

We were escorted to our room which was being attended by David, a tall elegant gentleman with an easy manner and ready smile.  He became one of our favorite staff.   After a restful night’s sleep without much activity, except for calls of distant hyenas, we woke to David-the-favorite bringing us coffee and biscuits.  It really was a heinous privilege! 

Bob wasn’t up to the challenge of a morning safari, so I wound up setting out solo with the two guides, greeting the sunrise across the Masai Mara as huge as an African smile.  I was now embarking on an impossible reality; until now I only held inadequate ideas of what to expect. As the sun rose, we passed a scattering of backlit topi and gazelles, traversed brackish gullies, one that I thought we would be stuck in for sure, and then spotted several other land cruisers in the distance.  Julius spied the group with his binoculars.

…cheetah. 

If the lion is the king, then the cheetah must be the supreme diety of the savannah; worshipped without shame above all the other felines.  

We arrived with only a few other vehicles, which was just as fortunate as her presence. There she stood, her head just above the grass, then like an apparition she glided through the grass, pacing the way angels pace themselves so as not to disturb us mere mortals, the sun positioned at such an angle her spots shone like solar flares across her fur.  

The savannah is always a mesmerizing experience, but add a cheetah to the mix and you could easily become her prey. Like Medusa, you stare into her eyes and become transfixed as though you wished for a privileged death at the threshold of such a magnificent creature.  

Hello gorgeous

Julius watched her trajectory and slid the rover past the others towards a fallen acacia, though I was a bit concerned that we were moving away from her.  We arrived with only two other vehicles, he whispered “if we are lucky, she will climb on top.” We watched for several minutes as she strolled through the tide of grass and then, as if mama Africa had handed her a script, mounted the tree, stretching and looking about; it was as though we did not exist.  She took her place upon the tree, like a goddess on a throne: I could almost see her taking a paw and positioning the sun just right, and saying “see, who really is the most beautiful of them all.”

It was at that moment I could have exited this earth with little complaint. 

I would have been happy with a clear view of her on a small clutch of rocks and had not remotely expected a travel brochure moment.  I couldn’t believe my eyes, transfixed, if not paralyzed by this moment in time.  Then she decided she was done with us mere mortals, leapt off the tree and sauntered through the grass before becoming a glint in the sun.  

A seminal moment on safari

At this point Julius said we need to go as we were apparently somewhat off-road at that point and the rangers would be by.  As we drove away the other vehicles followed her and within a few minutes, alas, the rangers showed up and dispersed the other vehicles; crowding her too much could prevent her from pursuing game and frankly, after such a magnificent display why not just leave it there???

Julius and his intuition became the highlight of my safari experience.  I relaxed into my seat and watched the game go about their morning business as we made our way to a convenient breakfast spot, overlooking the savannah and in grand African style, and of course with more food than I could possibly eat.  

Sure, we have now seen just about every animal at this point, but it’s their placement in different parts of the continent that make it so special.  Just being in the Masai Mara, in the high plateau of thin, undisturbed air, brings a clarity and freedom as opposed to the more condensed, touristed areas.  There are so many places that go unexplored, absent vehicles and disturbances, you can refresh your weary mind and commune with the animals; they don’t suffer the human constructs of existential crisis’ and it’s as though you are given permission to just blend in with the rhythm of the land. 

After lunch and a short nap I decided to go out on the afternoon drive; Bob was content to relax at the lodge.  We were mostly on our own, which isn’t so difficult to do; you may see a vehicle kick up dust in the distance, and as the heat and wind builds up and then recedes the grass feels alive once again.  The lions we met on the way were still sleeping it off and the antelope were content for the moment; they do not fear the day – that is the only time we can even walk around the camp without being escorted by a Masai Warrior, so we can relate.  

I know how he feels

During our afternoon jaunt, we ventured past a hyena hide, basically a nest in the low bush and you could see where the dirt had been smoothed out from use.  And then we happened upon herds of elephants, with adolescents in tow. 

Elephants – always

Due to the density of the wildebeest in the Serengeti, there were a fair amount of carcasses but in the Masai Mara we didn’t run into as much, but you still see the occasional bones, and wonder how many generations they have been sitting there. 

Julius had been informed that there had been a leopard sighting and if there was any event that dulled my experience it was the fifteen some-odd vehicles crammed around a grove of acacias to catch a glimpse.  When we arrived there were a few vehicles that were shamelessly crushing their way into the trees for a better view.  Julius said the leopard was asleep and would probably leave once the vehicles were gone.  I told him Hakuna Matata – this is not how I wanted to experience the local wildlife.  We abandoned the love-fest and headed up to a knoll where we stopped and settled in for a sundowner; this would be my last afternoon safari and I celebrated the day with a nice spot of whiskey.  

Below us was the leopard-grove, hiding the cluster of vehicles, and I was content to watch the sun draw down into a beautiful evening.  The gazelles were kicking up dust as they clustered together for the evening.  I asked Julius if they did that for safety reasons and he said yes, the herds will start coming together at dusk for the “night is dark and full of terrors.” 

Sundowner on the Masai Mara

The leopard-grove-love-fest vehicles had dispersed, and we ventured back down to see if we could catch a glimpse of the feline in question, but it was too dark and Julius suspected that he had moved on.  We headed back to the lodge as the plains drew her curtains and we arrived to the glow of lanterns marking the pathways and a welcoming campfire.  

During the night I heard the occasional hyena, but otherwise dreamt about legacies of bones and filaments of grass disturbed only by the passing of a cheetah.  

In the morning we set out for the Mara Concession; Bob remained absent and bid me an adventurous morning.  As the sun rose, I could see giraffes patterned in miniature against the dawn.  We drove through some pretty rough roads reminiscent of the Ngorongoro Crater, but soon came to the gate:  Only private vehicles were allowed and a limit of five at that.  

Within the concession was a Masai village that had been purposefully set-aside for the local tribe as indeed, they had lived for generations on the Mara.  I’m sure Karen Blixen and Denys Finch-Hatton would have been thrilled to know that there were those who carried on their vision of preservation; hold-outs against the hubris of greed that has left Nairobi in the state it is currently in.  

The roads then changed dramatically – they were dirt but well-groomed and I settled in as we passed through rolling hills and watering holes teeming with Cape Buffalo and then we broke over the crest onto a vast, flat plain.  Here there were herds of Hartebeest that I had not seen since South Africa, and for a while the concession seemed devoid of game with a scattering of lone trees.  

Cape Buffalo

Julius said we were heading for the Mara River, yes, the same one that feeds the Serengeti.  As we neared, you could see the groves of trees hugging the banks and then large herds of giraffe and antelope emerged; it was as though we were heading into an unexplored wildlife corridor.  

The Mara Concession

We ventured to the precipice of the river; the area struck me as the perfect camping spot and if it wasn’t protected, I could well imagine it would have been overrun by now.  The guides set up the bush breakfast and we sat on the escarpment with a clear view of hippos, crocodiles and a herd of timid zebras on the other side.

This is what happens when you get my age

The swifts and the colorful bee eaters were swimming on the skin of the river, diving into their muddy nests, while the eagles became grounded in the trees.  It was a veritable quandary of wildlife; Julius said this was his favorite spot and I would concur; it is a place where the likes of John Muir would set foot, not so much to find the truth but to return to it. 

The zebra eventually dared one another to dodge the sleeping slug-of-a-hippo for a drink in the river. It’s a stressful affair because even if the hippos don’t scare you off, the insidious crocodiles may be in striking distance.  This went on for a good half-hour with only two of the zebras wandering to the shore and successfully satiating themselves.  

A typical day on the Mara River

We packed up (I was somewhat reluctant but vowed to commit to this place in memory) and headed out for the plains where we found lions mating in the shade of a bush and further on a large male guarding the remains of a zebra.  I had only seen wildebeest kills and the hide of the zebra created a contrast against the muted tones of the lion.  He had had his fill and was panting heavily, and I suspect would be in for a very long nap.  An observant hyena noted this, and within a blink of an eye, retrieved a leg and high-tailed it to a safe spot.  

A not so petit dejeuner

As the temperature rose I could actually see the mirage of heat coming off the grass, yet it really didn’t feel too intense. 

And…more elephants

As we headed back, we skirted the Masai village, women in their colorful robes looking like facets of beads strung across the neck of a tree, swaying with the wind.  

This would be my last safari drive and I was grateful to have ended it at the Mara Expedition Camp.  It was everything I had imagined, if not more; it could have easily stayed a few more days.

Once back at the camp, Bob said the staff had found a nest of Bush Babies (tiny nocturnal primates), we stopped by one of the thick acacia trees and up in the branches one was slung over a limb, awake and staring at us with those huge eyes. Since they are nocturnal so it was a real treat. Then he pointed out the baby Bush Baby – I melted on the spot.  I wish I could take one home!!

When we reached the tent I decided to lay down for a while; the flame of this experience finally burned down and I wound up convalescing in the tent; my body raging against the altitude and my inability to consume anymore.  Unfortunately it was our anniversary and I was out of commission – it was almost as if the build up and let down of such overpowering experiences had depleted all my resources. Fortunately, even though Chem Chem had the date wrong, we at least had a once-in-a-lifetime celebration in the bush.  

We were set to leave the next day: I managed some toast for breakfast and then the staff danced in with our anniversary cake that almost reduced me to tears (see the camp reel below). I had to tear myself away from this place, the atmosphere had put me in a dream-like trance despite my ailments.  

On our way to the airstrip Julius got word that two cheetah brothers had been sighted; considering that Bob had not been on safari during our stay in the Masai Mara, this was a real treat.  We arrived with only a few other vehicles nearby and there they sat, under a large tree, observing a herd of gazelles – or trying to if they could just stay awake. 

Our safari ends in feline splendor

I’ve noted that lions will look at you but cheetahs look past or through you – as if you don’t exist, as if humans are so inferior we aren’t worth the bother.  It is somehow fitting for the haute couture of the savannah. 

Thank you Mama Africa for such an exemplary farewell, your children have delighted us beyond measure and I will think often of your treasures.  The safari couldn’t have been scripted any better, except that I wish I could have enjoyed your embrace a bit longer.

Mara Expedition Camp Reel

Julius and Diana waited until our flight took off, it was a larger plane with only one stop in Amboseli.  We soon arrived at the funky Diani Beach airport in the pouring rain, yet I felt like I could stand there and let it wash me clean.  We were now south of Mombasa, on the Swahili Coast and back at sea level.  At the private resort of Kinondo Kwetu we found a thatched roof paradise reminiscent of Hawaii, void of the summer crowds with only the antics of monkeys.  I felt like I was floating to and fro with the surf, bathed in the perfect temperature ranging between 70-80 degrees.  

https://www.kinondo-kwetu.com/

We were well away from Diani Beach itself, with its cluster of large resorts reminiscent of Honolulu.  Kinondo is very secluded, I felt as though we were in our own bubble, virtually undisturbed, unencumbered, in the drift, and I was starting to feel like my old self. We stayed grounded for the most part, lounging around the pools and cabanas, save for our meals that were always served at a different venue in the resort. 

Funky cabana-style lunch venue in an old boat

Besides the thieving black faced monkeys there was a family of beautiful Colobus monkeys that came through the resort, oddly disinterested in our food our belongings and were a joy to watch.

Colobus monkey

We ventured out for short shopping and snorkeling trips and were very content just to return to the resort where we could meander freely into the evening without the threat of being eaten, and at times collecting impressive shells on the beach that had washed upon virtually untouched shores. 

Snorkeling in the Indian Ocean

On our last evening the staff set up a private table by the pool; they troubled themselves to bring the food from the kitchen to this unexpected, and final, venue. Lanterns lit the path and the pool surround, and we found ourselves dining in tropical splendor – the only sound being the surf and the wind in the palms.  We don’t know why we were chosen for this particular experience but we lingered in the moment; it’s as though our anniversary dinner was transported from the Masai Mara to Diani Beach🥰

Who would ever want to leave such a place and would you ever grow bored??

I’m going to really miss this place

Though we weren’t heading back to a career or workplace, we knew the transition of reality would still be difficult after such phenomenal experiences, and that we may never venture to this level of travel-euphoria again.  The price of privacy can be unobtainable for many, and we have been blessed to be able to indulge in such a fashion🙏

The next day we landed back at the Fairview, we decided to have one last dinner by the pool before our flight home; but our venue was short-lived when the heavens opened up and Nairobi gave us a monsoonal deluge, a sort of equatorial send-off sending everyone rushing for the cover of the bar:  It was as if Africa was washing away the dust of our experience, preparing us for the stage of our journey.  

In Conclusion 

Africa in an untouched state is a formidable land, with roots that run deep into the human psyche…if you open your heart wide enough to let her in. When we left it was like a dear friend who had passed on; you navigated the headwinds together and the precious trinkets you’ve gathered have taken on a soul of their own.  We surround ourselves with souvenirs until they too become bones on some distant plain.  

There are no straight lines on the savannah, no matter how much you can try, Mama Africa will not allow it.  She will wash out your roads, feed you a buffet of dust, and displace your sweat to the clouds. You cannot tame her elephants or zebras and her guardians will disperse you if you misbehave where her children are concerned.  

I have reflected several times on the curious behavior of the eagle that had landed on the lawn when I was visiting the Blixen museum.  It wandered about, like a protectorate of sorts.  If Karen Blixen had a spirit-animal I do wonder if it would be an eagle, untethered, flying to great heights, drifting above the fray, while civilization forced the land creatures into an unnatural migration from the Ngong to the plains.  But not the birds, as their song softens the blow of civilization to counter-balance its progress. Eagles, like the two lovers who soared across the Great Rift Valley, float in the elusive animal-ether of which the Baroness was a part.  Silence will speak, said the animal spirit…if you just take a moment to listen.

September 9-12 Serengeti, Tanzania Africa

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Just the name sets the imagination on fire:  Songs have been written about it, countless documentaries have been created, especially coverage of the “Greatest Show on Earth” – referring to the Great Migration. We had planned the timing of our safari in hopes of seeing herds of wildebeests make the harrowing crossing of the Mara river.  It’s never predictable as they follow the rain and last year the migration didn’t happen until October.  People come from all over the world and drive up from central Serengeti and camp out for days, sometimes to no avail.  

Wildebeest are “dumb” – this is the conclusion of every guide you meet.  It takes just one to start the stampede for the river, and even when they arrive they might not find it suitable, at the particular moment, to cross and will mill around for days. 

Not long after flying from the Ngorongoro Highlands, we were eying herds of elephants, zebras and wildebeests as we descended over the Mara River and the legendary landscapes of the Serengeti.  

Our first encounter with the migration came in the form of a non-landing event at the Kogatende airstrip; I was wondering why our landing was so incredibly bumpy and if that was just normal – we jolted up and down a few times and then suddenly were airborne again, then I peered out the side window and saw a herd of wildebeest right below us, so close it was as if we were skimming their manes.  The cabin filled with varying degrees of expletives bordering on screams of terror. 

As it turns out, wildlife on the runway is not uncommon this time of year, and the bush pilots have become very skilled at “buzzing them off.”  We were successful on the third try and landed in a suitable manner on the small airstrip.  While this introduction was not a famous river crossing, it set us up for the next few days of adventure. 

The Serengeti – is known in Swahili as the endless plain spanning a massive area of Tanzania. While I wouldn’t compare this portion of the Serengeti to the vast plains of the Masai Mara, especially in the Mara River region, you definitely feel you have finally arrived in the wilds of Africa, the one you’ve always held in your imagination.

Several land rovers (always land cruisers really but I just call them land rovers for consistency) were parked ready to whisk excited safari goers to their lodges.  We met with yet another Emanuel, a younger, strapping Tanzanian who would be our driver for the next few days.

We collected our luggage which was wheeled around the dirt parking area until it was miraculously matched up with the respective owners.  Upon using the facilities there was of course, no toilet paper. With all the money that comes through this area you would think there would be some that would help support the accompanying infrastructure but as I’ve discovered as we’ve traveled through East Africa, that the facilities are surprisingly third world.  It does make you wonder.  But being the seasoned traveler that I am, I always carry tissue with me and also helped a few stranded travelers along the way.  

We settled in, again to our delight, we had our own private 4×4 and driver and headed into the grasslands.  It was hot, which is so typical of high plateau plains, while you freeze in the mornings.  Much to our relief, it started to rain and we stayed pretty much dry but it was so refreshing and the perfume coming off the grass was potent.  We saw wildebeests and antelope as we entered some beautiful grassy knolls also called kopjes, with massive granite outcroppings and rebellious fig trees (a favorite of leopards) growing from the crevices.  It was quite other-worldly and apparently a good place for felines to hole up for the afternoon; alas we didn’t see any. 

We bumped our way to the lodge, and as we were coming through a rather contentious gully, Emanuel pointed and said lion. My eyes overshot where he was indicating as I thought it would be further away, but then I realized, with a fleeting sense of shock that this young male was a few feet to the left of us sitting on a ridge; if he felt like it he could have leapt right into our vehicle. But it was the afternoon and he certainly wasn’t bothered with lifting a paw.

We then crested with a view into one of the valleys and there sat our accommodation; it could have been vintage Africa with the way the clutch of canvas tents lay across the landscape.

The Serengeti Safari lodge is a mobile camp so it is very understated and is real tenting vs. stationary glamping tents being built on top of stone and or wood. Nomad, the tour company who owns this and Entamanu, packs up every four months to follow the migration, which must be quite the feat.  There are about six tents plus the staff quarters in all that makes for a more intimate setting and they’ve furnished the main lounge and dining area with comfy, rustic furniture and this is also the charging station area as electricity to the rooms is limited – no hair dryers for the more fashion-minded.

Upon arrival, we were fed a simple buffet (because it is necessary to be overfed everywhere you go), and settled into the lounge area to get our briefing on the bucket showers, meal times, charging stations and most importantly:  Safety – there is nothing between us and the wildlife that would include not just antelope, felines, hyenas, but elephants and buffalo.  At dawn and dusk we were escorted by Masai staff with spears and flashlights.  Our tent was close to the main area so we didn’t have far to go.  The code to get their attention after dark is to wave the flashlight in the tent entrance and they will come and retrieve you.  You have to admire all of these staff as they are up most of the night and/or early in the morning for coffee runs, wake up calls and escorting you around with the potential of lethal wildlife in the vicinity.

We got to our tent and unpacked (this is when the 15kg limit comes in handy as you don’t have much and there is laundry service at every lodge). Though very rustic, there are bathrooms complete with a dressing area, chemical toilet and an innovative bucket shower that is filled with hot water when you wish to wash off the dust of the day.  While not as luxurious as the others places we stayed so far, it was definitely a bump up from our usual tent camping along the Metolius River in central Oregon.  

We also had a small covered veranda with table and chairs where you can relax and watch the game roam around the valley.  

As it had already been a very long day, I decided to take a nap, enveloped in solitude, and Bob wandered to the main tent lounge to catch up on journaling and charge up his devices.  The main area reminds me a bit of bedouin tent-style but with nice sofas, chairs, furniture and rugs and in the afternoon into the evening, a stylish pop-up bar.

The dining area had one long table for groups and other tables scattered on the perimeter beautifully lit up at night with kerosene lanterns.  

It was a quiet afternoon as everyone else was out tracking the great migration and we wanted to save our energy for the next two days.  After feeling a bit refreshed, I spent time with the binoculars on the front “porch” with a cup of tea and tracked some zebras and baboons in the distance. I was not seeking any bragging rights, just taking some time to breath in the atmosphere. I also downloaded my photos from the Ngorongoro with hopes of doing some journaling but the next thing we knew it was getting dark (in equatorial Tanzania it gets dark around 7:00), and the houseboy came around with the lamps. 

During happy hour the thunder began to roll in and sheet lightning lit up the savannah, it was at that moment I was swallowed whole by the Serengeti.

At dinner we ran into the American couple who had been staying an Entamanu and had some nice conversation over drinks.  The lovely pop-up bar was set up with a with just about every mixer you could think of.  It felt like a whiskey evening with the rolling thunder and the general rustic ambiance.  They built a fire in the pit nearby for anyone who wished to spin their tales from the day but most of us seemed content to lounge around the sofas and talk.  The rest of the guests were British which is not surprising.  Emanuel dropped in to brief us on our expectations for the next morning; we could very well be camped out by the Mara River for most of the day depending on the mood of the wildebeests.

Considering how open our circumstances were I did not feel unsafe – I think the lights and fire with the staff on the perimeter makes for a very enjoyable, casual experience.  

The rain passed us by and we were escorted to our tents to take in the night sounds and we were not disappointed:  During the night we heard a chorus of hyena and lion then later on we tried to decipher the noise outside and realized the wildebeests were grazing along the perimeter of our tent. The tearing and snorting of their feeding was novel as you don’t really experience that effect when you are driving about, but it went on for quite a while.

We woke around 6:00 with coffee delivered – this service turned out to be one of our favorite experiences.  We could also even order tea to be brought at anytime.  We bundled up and met Emanuel outside the main tent just as the sun was starting to rise.  Typically I wore my safari hat due to the intensity of the equatorial sun, a T-shirt, a zip up, scarf, safari vest, trousers and hikers.  All this was a perfect combination of tans and greens to blend in and the vest is great for a photographer like me.  I love having pockets handy!  We looked the part, not because we simply wanted to be fashionistas, but to blend in and also to be able to peel off layers which usually happened around 11:00.  And if you happened to be behind another vehicle the dust could get pretty thick.  And you always have to be prepared for every adventure, especially when you really go off-road, sometimes through muddy gullies to get to a sighting. 

As we went through the ever-fascinating kopjes, I vowed to photograph them in infrared before we left.  We encountered a family of ostriches with some charming chicks of which, we were informed, very few would survive – poor babies.  

Soon we came upon a pride of two mama lions and five male cubs around a wildebeest kill (wildebeest are so ubiquitous they could be called “the chicken of the savannah”).   Emanuel knew this pride well and you could tell that he adored them.  There were two other rovers nearby but there was plenty of breathing space for everyone.  

We pulled close to the kill and soon the mama lion was further into the guts and once she opened up the stomach the stench wafted our way!  I’m sure it was like caviar to her but…dang.  The smell would drift off and on as one of the cubs joined the feast.  The others were larking around and it looked like they had already had some breakfast and it was time to burn off some energy. 

Lion kill with five cubs

We could see the vultures circling nearby and mama lion eventually hauled off the carcass to a safer place.  The other mama lion stood watch over the breakfast table. 

The air was clear and the lighting was superb – I mean seriously.

Lioness in all her glory

Emanuel said it was time for us to go and see if we could catch some of the migration as the herds had been moving towards the river the last day or two.  This is probably the hardest thing for the guides; he warned us again that we could wind up spending most of the day by the river waiting for them to cross – if they cross at all – and you needed to be at the right crossing as there are around ten of them spread up and down the river. He said last year the rains didn’t come until October, so all the tourists who came in September didn’t get to see much.  We kept our fingers crossed (excuse the pun!). 

As we headed towards the river we started to see increasingly larger herds, they were somewhat restless, then they started to go into single file.  The sheer scale of the migration reminds me of what it must have been like in the great plains of America when they were thick with buffalo – what a sight to behold.  

Then the thundering began as they started running, primarily in a ragged single file and en masse.  Emanuel was trying to lower the windshield but the mechanism had gotten stuck, he was starting to get stressed “they’re running for the river!!” Bob helped him loosen the latch and we literally sprinted, ignoring the rough terrain, towards the river.  As we approached another rover was making its way down the opposite side. “They’re crossing!!!”  Emanuel jockeyed into his favorite position, taking pride in beating the other tour operators to such an excellent viewpoint.  

We watched as hundreds waded, leapt and tumbled into the river making their distinct grunting noises, almost like they were honking in varying octaves, powering through the river and making a mad scramble up the embankment. The remaining herd was kicking up dust as they raced through the acacia groves and we could see their hooves pounding through the trees.  It had become a stampede and we were front and center, watching what we considered to be miraculously good luck, to the Great Migration.  

We were well within fifteen minutes of our wow moment when we figured it would slow down as many times it’s only a small herd that passes through and the guides call it a day…but they just kept coming. Then we saw two crocodiles making their way towards the cacophony.  Emanuel said they probably wouldn’t attack as they have been feeding heavily for the last month.  And…they just sat there, looking menacing just above the waterline, and did nothing.  After about an hour the migration was still in full swing, taking different routes or doubling up and snaking around us. By this time other tour operators were attempting to crowd us but we were conveniently on a ledge.

Emanuel said this is the longest crossing he had seen all season as it had recently rained heavily in the southern Serengeti.  Then we saw a herd of zebra make the trek alongside the wildebeest.  

It only takes one wildebeest to start the stampede – like sheep they just mindlessly follow along.  Members of the herd literally hurl themselves into the water in a frantic bid to get to the other side without being mauled by a crocodile.  It boggles the mind to think the nearly 2 million wildebeest make this trek all through the year to find better feeding grounds.  

We humans also migrate to see the migration😂. Interesting that we are so fascinated by animal behaviors. 

The Great Migration – Mara River, Serengeti

We were two hours in when the stampede started to ebb; just watching the spectacle worked up an appetite:  It was nearly 10:00 and we were ready for a celebratory bush breakfast!!!  

We trundled off to a grassy knoll, not far from a grove of acacia trees, with a view down to the river.  And wow, did the lodge deliver: Emanuel pulled out a table, chairs, linens, coffee, a full-on breakfast fit for a crowd.  We sat, our senses flourishing in concert with our surroundings.  I love eating in the bush and I don’t require anything too fancy; just the idea of being in the wilds of Africa, connecting with a sense of nature akin to camping.  But this wasn’t Oregon, it was the glorious Serengeti.  

Elevenses on the Serengeti

I really hadn’t known what to expect, and were surprisingly taken in by the terrain that ran along the Mara River.  And I was trying to process that we actually witnessed what we had dreamed about forever:   The Great Migration. How freakin fortunate we were.  #pinchmenow 

I breathed in a moment of bliss, wanting to exhale a scream of joy but that would have probably not been a good idea.  It was quiet, save for the sound of birds and breeze and no sign of humanity for miles.  

This is around the time the layers come off as the sun begins to warm things up.  We packed up and Emanuel proceeded to take us up and down the river to see what else we could see.  It was around this time, with the heat kicking up that I had my first encounter with a tsetse fly:  They look like a cross between a honey bee and a fly and I let out a yelp as one of them dug into my arm.  Bob didn’t seem to be attracting them for some reason, and now I understood the use of the cowhide and tail fly swatter as I spent a good portion of my time swishing it around my person.  

While I was warding off pests, Emanuel took us upriver to a crocodile haven.  Upon closer inspection we observed an array of around ten wildebeest carcasses floating, in a sort of random surrealism, in the water.  This, apparently, was a crocodile “pantry” where they stash their kills and let the water tenderize the carcasses: It makes it easier to eat them that way.🐊

After contemplating this rather gruesome, yet fascinating bistro, we then headed out to flatter terrain to see if we could see some cheetahs as unlike the other cats, daytime is when the cheetahs are on the prowl for dinner.  We encountered the of elephants, hippos, giraffe, and some lovely bird life but alas no cheetah today.  It was getting hot, stirring up the flies so we headed back to the lodge.  

Life along the Mara River

We decided not to do the afternoon drive as we had had our fill for the day and it was nice just to relax after such an exciting morning, and by the time we got back it was already early afternoon.

Others began returning to the camp and had not seen the crossing; they were apparently too far down the river and weren’t aware of the stampede up river until it was too late. Hopefully they would catch it the next day.  

As we had to get up at 4:30 to get to the sunrise hot air balloon ride, we made it an early night.  It proved to be a noisy one as the wildebeests were restless and calling to one another for several hours from different locations in the camp😫. Bob wanted to go out and shoo them away but…on second thought…a bad idea as the background noise also included hyenas. Hyenas don’t suffocate their prey first like the other predators, they just start tearing and eating with little regard for the victim.  

The morning proved to be unsurprisingly cold, with Emanuel wrapped in a gator and accompanying beanie with a puffy jacket, looking like he was ready to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro.  Our vehicle was open air, though hot water bottles and blankets were provided (they make good use of hot water bottles on safari!).  It was still dark when we arrived at the launch site, with a few balloons being spread out.  We could hear a lion nearby and Emanuel assured us it was across the river – it sounded pretty dang close.

We were offered tea or coffee and as the light improved we were given our briefing; there were sixteen of us in one balloon and we had to enter it much like you would store your wine.  I’m glad I did this now and not into my 70’s as maneuvering could become a bit challenging.  Soon the balloon righted itself and we started dragging slowly across the grass, then very slowly we began to launch.  I love feeling like a bird, I had this sensation when I went paragliding once and for a while you are part of the kingdom of birds.  

The sun rose over the Mara River, and as we floated we scattered herds of wildebeests and zebras.  Then an elephant turned and charged us, ears flapping, looking at us as though we were some predator descending from the sky.

Keep your distance!

Before we knew it we were landing, bracing ourselves for impact.  We bounded around about three times before skidding to a stop but not before clods of dirt sprayed the basket.  We managed to extricate ourselves, dusting off clods of dirt and stood warming ourselves in the morning sun. 

Hot Air Ballon Ride – Serengeti

We then attended an elaborate breakfast that harked back to the days of British Colonialism, with some champagne and a loo with a view – of elephants!  

After we finished feasting, Emanuel arrived to take us out for the rest of the morning safari where we saw the birth of an impala – very rare indeed!  We paused for a good half-hour watching the fawn emerge and then mama licking and encouraging it to get up. It certainly doesn’t take long and you are at once in awe and then worried that in such a vulnerable state that a nearby predator will…you know…I can’t go there🙏

Witnessing the birth of an impala

Emanuel received info that a leopard had been spotted not far away so we were off again to find the most elusive of African felines. When we arrived there was a camera crew near a tree and a surprising absence of other vehicles – I guess they didn’t get the memo. We could barely see her in the underbrush then boom! She darted up a fig tree but then decided it wasn’t an appropriate venue to drape on. She then climbed back down and disappeared into the bush. This last a total of about ten minutes, though I suppose it was better than nothing at all. Except for the camera crew we were not allowed to venture any closer anyway so we soon aborted and went to the camp for lunch. Emanuel said we could come back in the afternoon as she might be on the rocks with her cubs: I’m in for that!!

Leopard sighting!

After lunch there wasn’t much time until the next safari drive so I charged up my devices and did some downloading. I wound up going solo – Bob decided not to go as he was fatigued and wanted to catch up on journaling.  This was my opportunity to do some infrared shots and I had Emanuel drive me around the kopje’s and spent some time contemplating the game as we made our way back to the leopard sighting.

When we arrived, it turned out to be rather busy including the same film crew; apparently the word had gotten out as there were several other vehicles in attendance.  This time the leopard had migrated to the rocks with her cubs.  We were a ways away so I switched between the binoculars and my camera for better viewing.  We spent a good half hour in their presence; everyone was quiet and respectful and we enjoyed some ginger honey beer (a local soft drink) as the sun dipped into the horizon, setting the sky on fire.  We stayed until the light got so low we could not longer see them. What a brilliant sundowner on my final night in the Serengeti…in the company of leopards.

Leopard with cubs – Serengeti

We got back before it was completely dark and I imbibed in a whiskey at my favorite pop-up bar, and relaxed on the couch reflecting on yet another astounding day.  In the distance the animals stirred and Bob and I enjoyed dinner by the lantern light with the campfire blazing nearby.  They had a bucket shower ready for me when I got back from dinner that I was so grateful for as I had doused myself in suntan lotion and bug spray and had picked up some stray dust.  My mind was consumed by the blur of the last two days and fatigue was rapidly setting in.  I didn’t have to dream about the calls of the wild during the night as they were real with the lions and hyena strolling restlessly around the camp perimeter. This had caused the wildebeest to scatter though when we woke in the morning we found one had peed on the table on our veranda🙄 #bushcamping

We bid farewell to the lodge; the always-attentive staff gathered outside the main tent and sang for us as Emanuel set off for the airstrip. When we arrived he stayed until he knew were were actually on the plane: The planes are either early or late, and sometimes don’t arrive at all so the lodge ensures the guests actually board and the plane takes off. This time we would land and disembark before we made it to the Kenyan border as we needed to go through passport control before boarding yet another flight for the Masai Mara.

As we ascended into the heavens, the Mara River snaked below us and for me this would be the most intense part of our safari; from below and above, the void was filled with life, as pure as thunder and as untouchable as lightning.

September 7-9, 2024 Ngorongoro Tanzania, Africa

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After a lovely farewell from the staff at Chem Chem we made our way back to the entrance of the gate keeping our eyes peeled for any unexpected wildlife sightings; we did see more impala and as I write this I am sure they a paying little or no attention to the comings and goings of these strange humans.  When I leave a place I reflect on the silence brought about by our absence and the freedom that comes with that thought.  

We were met at the gate of the concession by our guides, Emanuel and Logi, from the Entamanu Safari Lodge.  Emanuel was an older gentleman having been a guide in this area for over 30 years and in my view it felt as if he was more of a wise sage accompanying us on our journey.  Logi was his apprentice whom he had known for a long time and was set to take over from Emanuel when he retired – which he hoped was soon; Bob and I could sympathize with his desires. The guides and drivers work very long hours and seem to spend most of their time on rough roads; they must adapt to this sort of thing that would make the rest of us go somewhat insane.  Yet they are always excited about the wildlife and showing us their treasures, especially the hidden ones.  

We spent most of the drive on a nicely paved highway that apparently takes you all the way to Egypt which was an interesting thought.  We then veered through more Masai land herding their cows and goats that for me was an interesting comparative study to the Native Americans who also managed to thrive in a place that seemed rather devoid of any lush accompaniments, but that consideration alone discriminates against a people who live in relative satisfaction with their lives – so who is really the more privileged?  As I sat in the comfort of the land rover, rolling by in relative ease, internalizing, much like I did in Nairobi, especially as we drove by the interminable Kibera slums (over 2 million people), at how much of the world does not experience my immunity to that way of life. 

Emanuel insisted that Entamanu wasn’t Chem Chem and Bob and I had no issue since we weren’t subscribers to Architectural Digest and had expectations of something a bit more rustic.  Emanuel said there are other “fancy people” lodges in the vicinity but not at the elevation of this one.  We didn’t come to Africa to be pampered, you can get that at any resort along the Mediterranean, though we did start growing accustomed to the outstanding service levels we were to meet along our trek.  

After a few hours we started climbing into the highlands with its deep red soil and lush vegetation.  The air reminded me of the Pacific Northwest for some reason though the landscape was set in a more jungle-like atmosphere much like Hawaii.  The elevation and positioning near the equator creates a rich elixir for the senses with a fascination of vines and thick undergrowth.  We passed through one of the local towns with its usual madness of tuk tuks, motorcycles and donkeys.  It’s a fusion of the new and the old, with the old ways being somewhat more practical when modern civilization fails you.  Though one does wonder how the art of carrying the sofa on the back of a motorcycle is cultivated.  

Soon we arrived at the gate to the crater.  The Ngorongoro Crater is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the largest unbroken caldera in the world.  The road that leads to the crater is not paved and the larger potholes are filled only every few months to no avail…as if by design; it was very busy so we had a lot of bumps, curves, exhaust, dust and what appeared to be near misses with other vehicles, but that was only true in the over-civilized imagination.  

I discovered that there are two classifications of dust on the safari circuit: Civilized dust that occurs on structured roads that is mixed with exhaust and sets your sinuses on fire and the uncivilized kind that blows through you as you rough-road through a savannah, seeping into your cells so you can become one with the earth, a visit back to a forgotten self. The latter is the kind of “dust” I hope to visit in my dreams. 

After what seemed like an eternity, (an exaggeration on about 45 minutes) we came across an orderly battlement of vehicles worthy of an outdoor cinema; this was a front row seat into the caldera from the viewpoint of a bird.  Like the Grand Canyon, you momentarily forget all your senses as you peer through the gates of heaven trying to reconcile that such a magnificent vista really exists.  Here Mama Africa cupped her hands and cried tears of joy as she gave birth, flooding the plains with a deluge of creation.  

We moved further up to our lunch venue near facilities (many times there are attendants who come and clean after the “flush” with a hose, because the water pressure may be in question) that apparently is a common meeting ground for tour groups.  I have found that many of the general tourist-area toilets (very true for the bush airports) are wanting for some reason – considering the volume of visitors.  The lodge facilities are typically great if not outstanding.  

We settled on stumps and fold-out chairs, mostly to avoid the ants at the picnic tables, and ate what had been given us from Chem Chem, sharing much of it with our guides as we were at this point already being overfed; such is the tradition in Africa.  

Unfortunately, Emanuel’s sandwich was torn from his hand by a passing eagle😫 On the bright side it could have been a seagull or a crow, but he was afforded a more prestigious grab.

We then meandered through the equatorial jungle that broke into highland grasslands, passing through more Masai country with their bomas, and as we gained elevation we could see the distant plains of the Serengeti and its earthly haze.  We turned off to the road leading to the Entamanu Lodge – the highest one in the Ngorongoro Highlands and in its own unique location on the rim; this location also affords you access to the crater floor before just about everyone else. 

https://www.nomad-tanzania.com/camps/northern-tanzania/ngorongoro-crater/entamanu

We arrived and after our briefing, decided to go on a walk around the highlands to stretch our legs.  We were accompanied by a ranger complete with a rifle and a Masai with a spear and a walking stick that I decided to use on the downhill slope.  It was a beautiful and clear day through forest and grasslands, there were elephant and antelope sightings though we didn’t encounter any, but we were graced by the giraffes who poked their heads above the acacia trees; referred to fondly by the Masai as “bush towers.”  We learned about the trees and medicinal properties of many of the plants.  We encountered the ubiquitous cattle drive, with the soothing tinkling of bells and momentarily became herders ourselves.  We managed to get about an hour of elevation cardio in before we went to our room and freshened up for dinner.  

We had our sundowner with others in the lodge, set near a lovely fire. We ran into Americans who would be staying at the Serengeti Safari Lodge so we would have a somewhat shared experience moving forward.  

At this height, It doesn’t take long for it to get cold and windy and after a nice supper we were escorted to our room (a practice we would find at every lodge) with a nice gas fireplace – that was truly welcome!  Our room had a bit of a Scandinavian vibe to it; very understated with cow skins and rugs so you could settle in for an evening, protected against the elements. 

During the night, the wind rattled things a bit and we were awoken at 5:00 with a tray of superb coffee that was placed in a kiosk built into the wall – much like a stationary dumbwaiter, so we can easily retrieve it without too much disturbance, and also letting the cold in.  We huddled in bed until the fire got us warm enough to get dressed.  As we stepped outside, bundled in almost every layer we had thought to bring, the wind mixed with the fog made for a very atmospheric, almost jack-the-ripper start to the day. We were escorted to the land rover, complete with blankets and hot water bottles.  We retraced our way to the entrance that lead to the crater floor; we wound down this portion of the road that has been, thankfully, repaved into cobblestone.  The mist started to lift and the sun eventually parted, revealing the treasures below.  

At the threshold of the cauldron, a rhino was spotted in the distance but it was too far for my camera lense, but we watched as he sauntered across the grasslands in solitude.  There were currently very few other vehicles in the vicinity.  

Our first stop was a fresh lion kill which at the time was a very novel event for us.  We were glad we were early birds because in about an hour nearly 20 other vehicles started to pile up for a look, even though only five vehicles are technically allowed at a time.  Many had up to six people packed in trying to get selfies; and fortunately for us being early gave us the best vantage point and the lions would be fast asleep by the time many of the other sightseers arrived. 

The morning meal with the lion family was a sight to behold, giving us Africa in all her savage glory; blood soaked faces and mama licking her cub clean.  The tearing of the flesh and breaking of bones is an auditory and elemental experience. 

We also had a chance to study two magnificent male lions before they too passed out for a day-long siesta.  Emanuel called one of them “Mufasa” and they were certainly stunning specimens (I sometimes wonder if he isn’t also referring to himself!).  There had been two kills as the remains of a wildebeest were not far away, on the other side of the road.  When you observe the family, even though their bellies appear horrendously full, they keep eating as they sometimes don’t know when their next meal will be. 

Mufasa

There was a troupe of hyenas and circling vultures nearby, but they hadn’t ventured too far as the two male lions were not far away, and I guess that was more than the scavengers could bear for now.  

As we were by a lake, we saw plenty of bird life including flamingos.  The area was rife with hippos who would move occasionally but were otherwise content to be enormous slugs along the shoreline.  

We managed to squeeze past the increasing number of vehicles, some that were blocking our progress, and at the point were happy to be extricated from the fray, and proceeded through the vast ecosystem seeing some stunning bird life – the Crowned Crane topped the list and proliferated everywhere it seemed. 

Gray Crowned Crane

We saw Ostrich couples and studied the vultures that looked very similar to condors. Many people think they are ugly, but like the hyena, they are very unique and necessary to the savannah.  I find them quite fascinating.  

We then moved onto more hippos including the rare experience of a mating couple  🫣. We then stopped for breakfast, which is basically an area reserved for tourists with decent bathrooms.  It was set overlooking a lake with an accompanying marsh with elephants, more birds and of course hippos; we witnessed two sparring which was a treat and of course you don’t venture too close to that sort of spectacle (one gentleman was getting too close and the guides started to freak out). 

As we ate and chased away the neon blue starlings on the hunt for breakfast bits… but this time the eagles were absent and we managed a meal in relative peace. The sun was breaking through the cloud layer making for ethereal backdrops with the game seemingly small against the dramatic escarpment. We even encountered a small wildebeest migration crossing the road; a prelude to what we hoped we would experience in the Serengeti.  The crater is an astounding area within its own microcosm, protected so the inhabitants can live out their daily lives in relative peace (save for us tourists but rangers can come and break up the “party” if the drivers get too aggressive).

We stopped off on a knoll overlooking the grasslands, a gentle wind ushered in a peaceful vista, filling my lungs to capacity.  I can imagine at night, even when the predators are restless, the peace here is palpable and it’s when the cauldron truly comes to life.  When one thinks of a cauldron it usually means fire, but here, this is a cauldron of life.  

We made our way back to the rim and ended the day with a highland bush walk, again with a ranger and a Masai guide that took us through a herd of giraffes who poked their heads above the canopy – they stopped and watched as we walked past.  We headed for our sundowner spot, all set up with an open bar and a lovely view, across the landscapes of the Ngorongoro – the sky becoming a picturesque magenta. 

We then began to hear the chants as dancers from the local Masai village filed in, in all their respective glory; it was certainly one of the highlights of the day.  

As the dancing faded we could once again hear the cow bells from the nearby herds, a background symphony that earned this area its name:  Ngorongoro echoes the tune of cow bells, as demonstrated by a song rolling off the tongue of our Masai guide.  There is no end to the charm of this place.  

The next morning our guides took us back down the road-from-hell and it seemed like even more tourists were winding their way back up.  After about 45 minutes we reached the gate and the accompanying mayhem.  It certainly makes for great people watching. I’m torn by the need for tourism to fund the people of Tanzania, and the abuses that accompany this sort of progress.  

Back on smooth roads again we were driven to the Manyara airstrip for our next stop, the Serengeti and the Great Migration. The strip is small and we were flying in a cessna so it was going to be cozy to say the least.  We bid Emanuel and Logi a fond farewell – we felt so blessed to have had a private vehicle with two excellent guides; they did an incredible job of showing us the sights and skirting any potential hoards.   We soon squeezed our way into the cabin. The she-captain tells you to fasten your seat belts but the gentleman across from us couldn’t get his belt to work so he tied it around his waist #thisisafrica.  As we ascended, the crater opened up below us, giving us a parting panorama as the massive cauldron and its inhabitants slid into the distance.  

The Ngorongoro