After leaving Tok (the Tok RV Park is great and we were nestled amongst the pines) We made it across the border but not before spotting a juvenile caribou on the side of the road. He was freaked and froze in front of us before sprinting off to find his mother.
The RV traffic had picked up dramatically and we kept seeing the same caravan of three RV rentals being driven by Germans. We seem to encounter a fair amount of Dutch and Germans.
The frost heaves started not long after we left Tok – we were anticipating them this time. The “perma” in perma frost isn’t so permanent as the pavement gives way as the ground softens. There are times on the Alaska Highway that you would expect the oxygen masks to fall if you were on an airplane. Being in a higher profile vehicle only exacerbates the rumpy-bumpy ride.
The wildflowers were in bloom and we even drove through a “pollen storm” – like a dust storm but it was orange-yellow pollen coming off the deciduous trees; the road was layered in it.
We were curious to see how much had changed since we went through this area two weeks ago. The Yukon Discovery Lodge was busy though they ran a generator all night as they had no other source of power. Such is life in this part of the world.
We left the next morning as the sun was rising over the nearby ridges. Fog emerged from the valley and we had a clear view of the Kluane Range that had been socked in on our way up. We witnessed massive icefields running vertically from the sides of peaks – amazing stuff.
We passed marshes and ponds with migratory birds including Trumpeter Swans; one pond had two swans surrounded by ducks as if they were gathered to admire their magnificence. Unfortunately there wasn’t room to stop and enjoy the scene.
We swung by Pickhandle Lake as the mist rose and the loons were making their way across the water.
We then settled at Lakeview Campground for breakfast; the forest was rich with the scent of pine mixed with the heady essence of spring.
As we made our way back down to Destruction Bay, we rounded corners with endless the endless mountain range welcoming us with open arms. The bay was still partially frozen, quiet and still save for the distant cry of what sounded like a fox.
After a peaceful overnight at the Caribou RV Park south of Whitehorse we headed to Skagway, AK via Highway #2 – known as the famous Klondike Highway that leads to the Inside Passage. We essentially drove from the Yukon, through a spit of British Columbia and back into Alaska – all 100 miles from Whitehorse.
As we headed west the terrain turned into granite outcroppings, more steep cliffs with cascading waterfalls, surrounded by partially frozen ponds. Granite islands emerged from the waterways, covered in lichen with a smattering of boreal pine creating a very unique ecosystem. The temperature dropped to the 40’s as we crossed from Canada back into the U.S. It was an extraordinary site as we headed down the steep slopes into the bay.
The weather cleared as we parked up in Skagway at the Pullen Creek RV Park; there were four cruise ships up from Glacier Bay in the dock carrying some 12,000 people. We encountered many of the ice-cream-consuming tourists as we explored Skagway; which turned out to be quite the destination with the Klondike Gold Rush mystique permeating the town, its old buildings giving off an aura of the Wild West. The Gold Rush was brutal – when you consider that the prospectors had to endure such a savage environment in the hopes of striking it rich. The museums along with the active, retro train station gave us a good feel of what it must have been like.
They had an obscene amount of jewelry stores – I suppose because the whole idea is this is where gold is mined? We did find a few nice art galleries amongst the interminable kitsch and discovered these gems (I go ape for art!). The mother of the artist was there and said in the original painting of the Laughton Glacier her daughter painted in one of her boots that she had lost during a hike!
Whimsical Watercolors of the Inside Passage
Skagway reminded me a bit of Sisters, Oregon with the traditional facades and galleries and in the summer it is also teaming with tourists.
It’s now 6:00 a.m. and there is a loud hooting of a train then several crash-bangs! The train has pulled into the harbor to greet the three cruise ships that had arrived – the fourth must be on its way. Either this is normal or they are making up with a post-Covid frenzy. Skagway must make a killing on tourism during this short window. Come October the bay will start freezing over and the 300 some odd residents of Skagway will be encased in snow and ice until May. I don’t know how they manage!
We departed on a stellar warm day and headed out to Carcross, but were diverted several times to take in the scenery.
We even spotted a pair of brown bears munching on dandelions on the side of the road.
Carcross is a charming town – the name is derived from Caribou Crossing. The town was built to promote the indigenous tribes with lovely totems and buildings painted in the Tagish First Nations tradition. The center was designed to represent local artists, but sadly there were only a few shops open. Otherwise it is a lovely stop along the Klondike Highway.