April 1 Sedona, AZ

Posted on April 2, 2022April 2, 2022 Posted in #rvlife, Photography, TravelTagged #arizona, #leisurevans, #photography, #sedona, #travelLeave a comment

We drove down 89A from Holbrook; I had been to Sedona a few times over thirty years ago when I lived in Scottsdale, but never came down through Flagstaff route. We had beautiful weather as we meandered through the stunning red rocks that make you feel as though you down in the Grand Canyon, but lush with blue-green junipers, pine, brush and unspoiled alpine air. The red rocks enhance the springtime flora; the lantana and cactus were blooming giving the land a deep sense of renewal. It was so nice to be warm, but not hot.

We arrived at the Rancho Sedona RV Park that sits on Oak Creek with views of the surrounding buttes. The park was emaculate with large sycamore trees that gave our surroundings an ethereal feel. A heron flew by adding to my increasing sense of euphoria; they were nesting in a nearby tree.

We were walking distance to the galleries and also to trailheads that sent us a bit off the beaten track. It was quiet as we were pushed out just enough from the main hub with the creek displacing any road noise.

Sedona certainly is not the laid back town I remember, but like so much “progress,” they too are being hammered with tourists; the traffic was thick and I was glad we didn’t have to park anywhere to visit the galleries.

We lucked out at the Creekside Restaurant with a seat outside and a lovely view of the surrounding buttes.

Lucky lunch spot – we couldn’t have scored a better seat!

The town has kept it’s beauty and you actually sense they fight for it – there aren’t really any big box stores here with most of the popular lines being curated by the local mom and pop shops – I love that. The gas stations and grocery stores etc. are on the main drag out of town so as not do disrupt the center.

Tlaquepaque Arts and Shopping Village was especially lovely with the rustic southwestern-style shops built around the giant sycamores and skirting Oak Creek. The weather was in the 70’s – it was simply bucolic. Despite the surge of humanity it felt well-kept and restrained.

We saw the new age proprietors around town but they weren’t as pronounced as the galleries and boutiques. I suppose I can understand the new age thing as the ether of this place has a very meditative quality to it; but simply embracing it is enough for me – I don’t need a psychic reading to appreciate my surroundings and life is a mystery to explore anyway.

We had the added pleasure of catching up with the several Leisure Travel Van owners that had congregated creating our own vortex! We bonded, drank wine, swapped stories, experiences and suggestions. It was great to meet fellow nomads who just maybe will also visit us in France😍.

We curated art from some of the galleries, glad to find pieces within our budget as some of the art was well out of our range – it will be fun to unpack these gems in France and find them a permanent home.

Wish we could have afforded this – I couldn’t stop drooling

Goodbye Sedona, you masterpiece on so many different levels. We are up early to Indian Cove Campground in Joshua Tree National Park – 350 some odd miles!

Mar 30 Petrified Forest and Painted Desert

Posted on March 31, 2022 Posted in National Parks, Photography, TravelTagged #arizona, #hoodoos, #leisurevans, #painteddesert, #petrifiedforest, #petroglyphs, #photography, #rvlife, #travelLeave a comment

This is actually a two for one since the petrified wood is scattered all over the Painted Desert. The area is a vast and diverse geological pocket located in dinosaur territory – hence the large scale models of dino’s at the tourist stops along Route 66.

It’s mind boggling to think this forest dates back 217 million years; dinosaurs roamed these woods and became part of the archeological landscape in the same manner as the trees. Now desert, you see broken and shattered fragments all over the park in what was once a dense forest teaming with gargantuan wildlife.

Even more intriguing is the beauty of the buttes and hills where the tree fragments are now on display. Mother Nature, I guess, decided that she needed a more dramatic backdrop as part of her “preservation diorama.”

We parked up by the TeePee mountains and discovered a trail that wasn’t marked on the map – and what a lucky find that was! It was unspoiled with only a few other adventurous souls on their way back to the parking lot.

The sun was at our back while the storm boiled in front of us with the wind kicking up – all of this making the hike more intense. As we walked along the top of these hills, varying landscapes revealed themselves at every turn.

We meandered through layers of oranges and blues that looked like they had been deposited by machines in some quarry, with eruptions of occasional hoodoos balanced by smooth clamshell-like formations.

The storms looming on the horizon added to the drama; we were really hoping we wouldn’t get drenched on our hike since hail had been part of the earlier downpours.

We left unscathed by the weather and stopped by the ancient ruins of long-abandoned villages and explored the many petroglyphs dotted throughout the park.

When we reached Blue Mesa the wind kicked up and we started getting pelted by hail. It was so intense I had real difficulty getting the passenger door to close and the inside of BigB was getting drenched. Though we didn’t really get to hike the Blue Mesa, which is lovingly paved by the National Park Service, we certainly got a dose of it on our earlier hike. I felt bad for the people that were on the trail getting blasted with high winds and hail – it stung the bare skin.

The squall eventually dissipated as we left to explore the rest of the park and BigB got a good wash and dry in the process! Days of bug scum melted off the windshield.

We ended the day picking up a piece of polished petrified wood to use as a bookend. This is a reminder of where we fit in the grand scheme of things; touching the smooth surface of an artifact that is over two hundred million years old. It’s hard to wrap your mind around it as we go through our daily lives.

Mar 27-28 Roswell and Route 66

Posted on March 29, 2022March 29, 2022 Posted in National Parks, Photography, TravelTagged #albuquerque, #aliens, #gallup, #leisurevans, #navajo, #newmexico, #photography, #roswell, #route66, #travelLeave a comment

On a side note, we left Wilson-the-volleyball at the Carlsbad KOA recreation center; he needs to move around and he’s difficult to carry around on hikes – I’m sure he’ll be happier there playing with the kids.

We headed out to boondock at the Tumbleweed diner in Magdalena through our Harvest Host membership (pretty much out in the middle of nowhere).

But first we decided to make a stop in Roswell to check out what all the hype was about. We decided to tour the International UFO and Research Center. Despite the kitsch most of us associate with Roswell, this center was well put together with extensive research on the Roswell incident and the ensuing cover up. It’s fascinating that this incident needed to be covered up – I mean really – it wasn’t War of the Worlds and if aliens landed and were just checking us out why all the fear?

The research and witnesses lent a lot of credibility to what happened and as far as we know it’s probably happened elsewhere. Otherwise it was a fun adventure along with an entertaining mock up – a lot of effort went into all of this!

We also decided to stop for a Sunday brunch at the Cowboy Cafe – if you are ever in town check it out – they also have dishes with my local favorite – you got it…..green chili! My choice with the “Alien Omelette.”

We proceeded to our final destination through more high plains still wanting to know what people did out in this rather desolate land. When we got to Magdalena and the Tumbleweeds Diner it certainly turned out to be a bright spot with it’s fantastic murals (note the spaceship that is ditched in the desert!). It’s about twenty miles from the Very Large Array (those big satellite dishes made famous by Hollywood) but unfortunately the visit center was closed so we decided to skip it.

We overnighted in the diner parking area which is pretty much just an extension of the surrounding desert, it was super peaceful and we were streaming the Oscars but even that connection gave up after a while and all you could hear was the breeze. In the morning we headed for Albuquerque and the Enchanted Trails RV park on Route 66. It was close to the I-40 but it didn’t affect our sleep – you will find that is the case with most of Route 66 which is basically the I-40 anymore.

We headed out early to get to the Petrified Forest with a stop in Gallup along the way. I wanted to check out the Perry Null Trading Post as it has authentic art and I know the Navajo work and help run the place. I found a lovely turquoise pendant to add to my collection; the piece is inlaid with beautiful silver work and stamped with the artist’s initials and authenticity. I wound up paying half price – I probably didn’t notice the sale sign. Collecting authentic pieces gets the funds back to the Navajo. I’ve gone into these other “trading posts” and have found southwest-themed merchandise made in India and China – no thank you!!

After two weeks touring New Mexico and all of its wonders we bid farewell. We have seen so much of this enchanting state and it certainly delivered. My only complaint would be the vast empty plains and the accompanying wind that was unrelenting, but the other endearing qualities along with the people certainly made up for it.

Thank you Santa Fe, White Sands National Park, Carlsbad Caverns, Shiprock, Bisti Badlands, and the Tumbleweed Diner for all the great memories.

Mar 26 Carlsbad Caverns

Posted on March 27, 2022 Posted in National Parks, Photography, TravelTagged #carlsbadcaverns, #caverns, #leisurevans, #nationalpark, #newmexico, #photography, #travelLeave a comment

We left White Sands and travelled through the Lincoln National Forest up to an elevation of 8500 feet (which explained the terrible mileage on BigB), then came to the endless plains that reminded us of “High Plains Drifter.” I can’t imagine who put up all that fencing that goes on forever. And as Bob commented, “that needs to be maintained.”

We stopped by a quirky ranch known as Runyon Ranch, we bought some lemon lime roasted pistachios and marveled at the pet zoo; it turned out to be a cross between and ranch and circus – there were billy goats, donkies, sheep, a zebra, water buffalo and a camel. We could only speculate how they came in possession of the exotic beasts.

What was equally entertaining was the cacophony of animal sounds that ensued during feeding time – it was a bit of a cross-cultural experience. It’s a place you must stop by if you’re in the hood.

We reached the Carlsbad KOA to settle in for the night. We had reserved our time at the caverns that is now required by the National Parks. It was already in the high 70’s pushing to the mid to high 80’s so the cavern was actually welcoming at a comfortable and humid 55 degrees (my sinuses were appreciative as they had been protesting against the high desert dryness).

To say that the cavern is massive is an understatement – pictures barely convey the scale of this cavernous masterpiece. The lighting is subdued and does not overcompensate thus enhancing the scale and mood. The cavern is 750 feet below the surface and you take the winding path down, and down… and down as the wonderment reveals itself.

There is something about caves, regardless of the size, that give you comfort and you can envision setting up shop here; possibly a primordial need for safety from man-eating dinosaurs.

As a tourist you are only getting a nibble of the expanse that goes on for miles. The path is well-paved though somewhat dim and thankfully there are railings to guide the way.

It’s akin to a massive geode but without the bling factor. The stalactites and stalagmites are truly massive. There are ante rooms that look like they could be doll houses with it’s own cast of alien characters.

I continually swirled around in awe – you need to look behind as much as forward. If you decide to climb back out of the caverns be prepared for a workout; we opted for the elevator instead. My thighs certainly got a workout on the downhill trek.

Bless the souls who preserve these masterpieces to maintain our sense of wonder and awe.

Mar 25 White Sands National Park

Posted on March 25, 2022 Posted in Photography, TravelTagged #alamogordo, #dune, #leisurevans, #newmexico, #NewMexicospacemuseum, #photography, #travel, #whitesandsmissile, #whitesandsnationalparkLeave a comment

We revelled in the warm weather – the temperature was destined to reach the low seventies and we were able to spill out of the rig and get some much needed house cleaning done. Then off to the International Space Hall of Fame.

Grogu was certainly in his element and the space museum is a must-see when coming to Alamogordo – which, by the way, is a clean and well-structured city, probably due to all the military and government space-related activities there. We spent more time than anticipated enthralled by the displays and history.

Once inside the White Sands National Park, BigB felt more like a lunar module as we transitioned from pavement to hard-packed sand surrounded by voluminous white dunes on each side. The dunes are made from gypsum, blinding in the sun, shifting with the light and the wind. We parked at the Backcountry Trail as that is where you find the massive display of undulating fields, much of it devoid of vegetation. The gypsum has a better grip than sand, and is less tiring to hike on. A slight breeze would catch us, a cooling contrast against the blinding landscape.

Save for wandering footprints I have not experienced a more pristine environment, we had happened upon the perfect day to explore; any hotter and it would have detracted from the experience.

The afternoon sun tilted, throwing shadows that crept along the basins, softening the harsh blows of light; it felt more like an awakening as the sensuality of the dunes came into full display – like deep sighs of relief after being long choked by the sun.

We ended the day with what Bob describes as a tipple as we watched the shifting display of shadows.

Surprisingly, it felt like the humidity began to rise along with the scent of sage as the sun set, bathing the inhabitants of the white sands in gold and pink.

Mar 20-23 Santa Fe, New Mexico

Posted on March 23, 2022March 23, 2022 Posted in Photography, TravelTagged #leisurevans, #newmexico, #photography, #santafe, #snow, #travelLeave a comment

We arrived at the Santa Fe skies RV Park which turned out to be a lovely location and facility. We could have stayed a few days more but were looking forward to our stay at the Hilton in the historic plaza. This was our chance to get some elbow room after a month on the road and tour the beautiful offerings of this magical city.

As has been our luck it snowed the next day as we ventured out. The locals call it “corn snow” which is more like hail. We thought it would pass but it started coming down in heavier flakes! It was relatively quiet as many of the galleries and museums were closed on Monday. Regardless, we browsed the shops and galleries and had some warm soup for lunch as the snow turned to slush.

We decided to have dinner at La Plazuela restaurant in the La Fonda – the beautiful historic hotel right on the plaza. The adobe style structure lends itself beautifully to the substance of the downtown area with its inviting curves and warm stucco. Our meal was fabulous; I had the green chili enchilada which did not disappoint – I had been waiting a long time to get a Hatch green chili fix on!

The next day we woke up to an inch of snow – it was set to warm up and melt off but still….we could use some warm sunshine! Well New Mexico delivered as the skies cleared and the warm sun beckoned us outside, eventually melting and evaporating into the high desert air.

We ventured to the Canyon Road art district with some outstanding sculptures and paintings. The whole area had a distinct aesthetic that spilled into the streets; fireplaces were emitting a lovely pinion fragrance and the stone and adobe studios blended into the artwork itself.

I picked up a vibrant watercolor print of a buffalo; I liked the boldness of lines and blending of the palette and the artist was busy working on this next painting. He processed my purchase with paint smudged hands.

The real treat for the day was meeting up with Nevada Wier, National Geographic photographer and member of the Explorer’s Club. She is exhibiting at the Obscura Gallery which also houses some original Ansel Adams which was an eye-opener! Nevada’s infrared photography is extraordinary. I had attended her photo workshops in the 90’s and she has always been an inspiration to me; it was great to come full circle and bond as artists. I picked up a signed limited edition print and we committed to catching up in the future and I’m excited by the prospect!

I have collected some pieces that will always remind me of Santa Fe with its curved, timeless structures that hug the winding streets, much like exploring back alleys on the hunt for treasure.

We had one last happy hour and I slumbered easily after walking 18000 steps. Then….we woke up to several inches of snow which shut down Route 66 due to an icy pile up: Suffice it to say we are ready for White Sands National Park – white but warm!

As we left Santa Fe the sun burst through and illuminated the snow giving the city a magical glow. Highway 54 eventually opened up into a vista of endless beauty as the clouds created their own snow angels across the sugar-coated adobe homes and high desert fauna. What started off as dismay and worry about driving in icy conditions unfolded into another mesmerizing leg in the Land of Enchantment.

Mar 18 Canyon de Chelly

Posted on March 20, 2022 Posted in Photography, TravelTagged #arizona, #canyondechelly, #leisurevans, #navajo, #photography, #travelLeave a comment

We arrived at the Cottonwood Campground outside of Canyon de Chelly – it was seriously windy when we left Farmington – gusts up to 55 miles per hour and then came the dust storms. This we endured for about two hours and when we turned south in Arizona the winds died down and we entered a landscape much like Monument Valley meets the Canyonlands. We stopped in Rock Point, still in Navajo territory, to get something to drink. As we drove through we were amazed at the formations in this otherwise nondescript area. I suppose because it was still the Navajo Nation and they respectfully and quietly walk in beauty in their surroundings not wanting invaders to disrupt the balance. Many of the homes are built in the traditional hogan shape – octagonal, some with modern doors on them – in honor of their traditions while flexing to modernization. There are no McMansions here, mostly converted double wides, some with corrals and livestock.

We entered Chinle as the wind picked up again and stopped at Basha Dine’ – the Navajo version of Safeway – there are no grocery chain stores here – just the usual fast food joints.

We arrived at the nearly deserted campground and found a sunny site. After so many days of getting up early and hiking to catch the sunrises it was nice that we were going to be stationary for a few days.

It’s still considered winter here and the trees are bare and I’m sure it’s prettier in the spring and summer as we are surrounded by cottonwoods. The campground has flush toilets and sinks which is very convenient for a campground.

As the day went on the campground started to fill up – another Leisure Travel Unity arrived and we had a nice chat! The first one we’ve encountered at a site.

The next day we had a leisurely day walking up to the Visitor Center and talking to the local ranger who gave us tour of the hogan they have on site. It was great to be in one that was made out of traditional materials with its east facing entrance.

We booked a Jeep tour of the canyon (tsegi in Navajo) with Bobbie VanWinkle who was born in Spider Rock since you can only go into the canyon proper with a guide.

Despite the Dutch name, Bobbie is Navajo and explained there are many mixed race families who live there, but you have to be married within a clan to reside in the valley. The ride was definitely four wheel drive terrain; through washes and up muddy inclines. The towering rock faces did not disappoint – they looked as though they had been cut out by a carving knife; they were so sheer and flat with reds and maroon veins washing down the sides. The floor is peppered with cottonwoods though they are not indigenous and the canyon should be populated by pinion and juniper much like the canyonlands.

We quickly came across the petroglyph and paintings that were done in some cases a thousand years ago by the Pueblo tribes. They are now Hopi and what the Navajo refer to as the Anasazi – the Ancient Ones.

Kiva recessed in the cliffs

We stood witness to these ancient impressions that had survived the elements for centuries. Then the ruins surfaced on the cliff sides – the kivas and food storage with more rock paintings protected by the sheer mesa cliffs. These dwellings are scattered throughout the canyon, most inaccessible except for the archeologists who frequent the area. The canyon itself has worn away leaving the dwellings out of climbing distance. The most accessible are the White House and Antelope ruins that are closer to the valley floor and fenced off to keep the usual miscreants from vandalizing the sites. The White House ruins are named due to the white plaster that reflects the sun. We noticed graffiti carved into the face of the ruins and upon closer inspection, one of the carvings was dated 1873! So it was the earlier settlers defacing the ruins….

As we meandered our way through the mesa, I pondered the generations of seedlings now germinating, the shifting landscape providing glimpses into lifestyles still farmed by the Navajo in the same manner they have been doing for hundreds of years; wool still spun from weathered hands that tend the sheep. The tribes could exist now as they had a millennia ago – clinging to the lost art of the land.

The canyon remains a pristine outback not easily disabused by modernization – the vendor at the Antelope Ruins has no cell service and works on faith that you will Venmo her the money for the pottery you just bought.

Stubborn to evolve or worried they could lose the thread of culture and place they have fought so hard to preserve?

A perfect day mingling with the ancients – under the same blue skies and mesas they embraced so long ago.

Mar 16 – Bisti De-Na-Zin Badlands

Posted on March 18, 2022 Posted in Photography, TravelTagged #bisti, #bistibadlands, #leisurevans, #newmexico, #photography, #travelLeave a comment

When we initially crossed into New Mexico I felt like I was in an alien landscape. It’s quite barren save for Shiprock which in it’s stately demeanor says “untouchable,” and means it. We got settled in our RV Park on the outskirts of Farmington which is one of the larger cities in New Mexico, so we were able to stock up on some necessary items. While I’m not a fan of Walmart due to their employment practices, I need to get over it as they are the only consistent chain where we can get what we need for BigB.

We had a pleasantly quiet morning along with a hot shower and set out to the Bisti Badlands.

Bisti is off a service road about 35 miles south of Farmington. To get there we had to drive a three mile gravelled road to the BLM parking area. While not full of potholes, it was a bit washerboard and we could only go five miles per hour – the going was rough. Even though it took twenty minutes it seemed like forever. People haul their RVs down that road all the time but it isn’t much fun.

When we reached the parking there was nothing to see except desert and some distant mounds. The lot was fairly full with another RV parked there – we couldn’t see any signs of life though.

There really isn’t a trail to the hoodoo’s or what I view as stone mutations. You follow a wash but there are cataracts of washes so it isn’t entirely clear; if you see other people you follow on faith but they might not know where they are going either. We stumbled across the first “forest” which turned out to be a fun playground of exploration.

The hoodoos look fragile, but are actually quite solid having been molded by a millennia of sun and wind. They are formed from sandstone, but not really petrified, except for the fallen trees that date back to the Stone Age. It is here where they discovered the “Bisti Beast,” a smaller version of T Rex.

If these forms were whipped together by spirits or aliens we couldn’t find them – they did a good job of hiding in the many nooks and crannies: It’s a place that equally shifts and is frozen in time when no one is looking – a space/time continuum thing.

The table tops are even more fantastical as they somehow remain propped up by one of the spirits that refuses to reveal itself.

That’s Bob – not to be confused with the resident spirits

Walking a mile further we found larger hoodoos and also a bit of a debris field of curious formations created by a lot of mischief.

Otherwise the landscape is desolate and reminded me of those westerns where people slowly die of thirst as they wander nowhere – hence the name ”badlands” I suppose. Add the wind that started to whip up and the clouds on the horizon, we decided to turn back. It’s always a great workout fighting headwind on a hike – but not the “Lady in the Wind” experience I had hoped for.

We had a nice afternoon tea in BigB to regroup and warm up.

Once back on the main highway, and after checking whether our teeth were still intact from the service road maze, we realized there were similar formations on the side of the road. I suspect what we had just hiked was simply a tease designed by those shape-shifting spirits who have bargained with the folks at BLM to toy with us humans.

Mar 15 – Moab to Shiprock

Posted on March 16, 2022March 16, 2022 Posted in Photography, TravelTagged #delicatearch, #leisurevans, #moab, #newmexico, #photography, #shiprock, #travelLeave a comment

Warning – this post is more of a rant!

We had been to Moab nearly ten years ago and had missed the Delicate Arch as it was closed due to severe road damage. This time was stayed at the KOA in Moab and scheduled to bug out at 6:00 to beat the crowds. The Arches entrance is open 24/7 and we drove right through followed by a few cars. The starry skies were interrupted by foreboding towers as we snaked through the legendary landscape in the twilight. We reached the parking area and were thankful that it was only partially full. It was in the 30’s and we had a 1.5 mile hike to get to the arch for sunrise. I have Renauds (really cold fingers) and had my USB hand warmer in my pocket which proved to be invaluable.

We did not realize what an uphill slog this would be and at elevation it proved to be quite a work out. Bob went ahead as he has better capacity than me to get up the escarpment. I somehow passed people and found myself alone; some of the poles were missing the trail signs so I took up tracking footprints in what sand there was.

It’s not a place accommodating to people who fear heights or have physical impairments. After nearly an hour I turned the corner and was blinded by the sun; I felt my way along the narrow trail and reached the viewpoint. There were at least a hundred people sitting along the rocky outcrop and people were already leaving. The problem was the sun comes up over the back of the butte and takes a while to light up the arch. More people came in and many climbed down to the arch itself for look-at-me photo ops.

This is where I had a problem: It’s dangerous to be climbing around the arch and then people kept going out there for selfies and photo ops to the point that those at the viewpoint started yelling at the people to stop so the rest of us could enjoy and photograph from a respectable distance. You can easily get a good picture from the viewpoint including the obsessive me, me, me selfies.

In my opinion, while they are starting to restrict access to the parks anyway, I think they should fence off access to the arch itself – there is no reason to climb on it or deface it. People notoriously deface monuments to the point the Navajo started restricting bags into the slot canyons as they caught a couple chisling away pieces of the canyon for souvenirs.

“Bilagaana” is the term the Navajo use for white man or white man ways and the accompanying greed and egos that create imbalance – this concept now extends to any race that does not respect the boundaries of the land where they are visitors.

We are all just passing through, no one is going to remember most of us in a hundred years but they will remember all the crap we leave.

I got my token I-was-there shot of the arch though there was no moment of zen to listen to the wind and take in the landscape or remind me of a profound moment; instead there was the scolding of children, the insistence on photographing themselves instead of really appreciating the arch, the cavalier climbing along the rock face and in one case almost slipping off, topped off with an overbearing tour guide who wouldn’t stop talking about himself…and it was cold.

My universe shrunk and I felt small – but it wasn’t because I was assessing my existence against a vast galaxy of stars.

We decided to do this trip because the overcrowding is such that even though we visit, we may not really get a chance to truly enjoy these monumental landscapes for much longer.

We hiked back down and on occasion were blocked by people who stood at the narrow passages with little concept that other people were trying to get by.

When we got to the bottom we broke off to see the petroglyphs that certainly didn’t garner as much attention or selfies.

No doubt carved by an Ute during a moment of zen

When we reached the parking lot around 9:00 it was full; people parking in RV spaces where they weren’t supposed to, people driving the wrong way in the lot trying to hijack available spots as they opened up (I almost got run over by an SUV). There was a line at the toilets. It was like being in a shopping mall at Christmas.

We stopped off for breakfast at the viewpoint to the Devil’s Garden where it was clear and beautiful and only a few other people. While our experience at Delicate Arch was a disappointment – the landscape was not; another incredible palette conjured up by an imagination I can only sell my soul to the devil to possess.

We stopped by the visitor center for our fridge magnet. Unfortunately the magnet board came unhinged from the wall and we’re having to come up a way to secure it better.

BigB copping a tan at Moab Visitor Center

We left waving to the mile long line of cars trying to get into the park. On the way we passed by Wilson’s Arch and of course Wilson was excited.

We headed out over the high altitude farmlands of Colorado to the Four Corners, then onto Farmington by way of Shiprock. We had gone through four states!

Bob was wondering why there wasn’t more signage or accessibility to the rock itself; because it is sacred and we are back in Navajo country – it is an abomination to climb or deface it as it would risk bad mojo to the Dine’ so they don’t want Bilagaana coming in and messing things up. Lord knows rock climbing associations have been trying for years to gain access. We went down a paved service road to get closer and turned onto a dirt roundabout for a better view.

There was garbage everywhere; empty bottles and cans against the backdrop of a sacred monument.

I rest my case.

Mar 12-14 Needles Outlook, Canyonlands

Posted on March 15, 2022March 15, 2022 Posted in Photography, TravelTagged #canyonlands, #leisurevans, #moab, #needlesoutlook, #photography, #travel, #utah2 Comments

We headed for the high altitude Canyonlands Rim Recreation area, home of the Needles Outlook and Windwhistle Campground. We explored the Outlook with it’s sheer precipes akin to the Grand Canyon, though the lighting was a bit harsh and the landscape was less defined as a result. We decided viewing would be better in the morning.

We went off the grid for a few days with barely any signal and definitely no Wi-Fi. We are so attached to our devices that we wondered how we coped back in the day when we camped and had no signal. That’s where having a good book, editing photos and journaling really come into play.

On the way back from the outlook we saw a volleyball on the side of the road, that like Dave, must have done a runner. Realize that there is no trash on the sides of the roads here – it’s completely pristine so it really stood out. We picked it up and it turned out to be a Wilson! So Wilson became part of the family to keep Grogu company. I’m sure the family misses Wilson but he has found a good home so we are sending out positive vibes.

We went to the campground with it’s smooth rounded sandstone backdrop and found a level site. There are no sharp edges here as if the wind decided it wanted to define a different pallet from other areas of the Southwest. The shaded areas were still protecting the snow that was slowly melting as the pressure system that had been plaguing us finally decided to move on. There were only two other campers around out of the fifteen sites and even they eventually siphoned off leaving Bob and I alone in this little slice of Paradise. The quiet is what I craved after all the stresses of noise pollution, and I sat and contemplated this level of emptiness thinking my surroundings had done fine without me for thousands of years. There were occasional birds and the tracks of deer but otherwise you could meditate virtually undisturbed for quite a while.

The emptiness is helping me reboot and I’m re-wiring myself to slow down. The physical problems (knots) with the shoulders and my arm are finally subsiding. I’m starting to lose track of the days which is both a curse and blessing.

The weather remained clear though there was the occasional gusts of wind. When the wind died down and the sun came out it was warm and pleasant.

The morning jaunt along the Needles Outlook turned out to be the best bet. Though it was thirty degrees out with the wind making it even chillier, it soon heated up. As we we are a contained unit we sat in solitary bliss and had our coffee and breakfast against the magnificent backdrop of the Canyonlands without another soul around. We switched on the local radio station which was playing Native American music. Otherwise all you could hear was the wind and the indian chants drifting faintly from the RV.

For a moment I felt like the “Lady in the Wind.” There was no rush, just nature and all the beauty that erupted from the vast Canyonlands of Utah for those who wish to partake.

Later that day we hiked the nature trail around the campground and learned about the fauna and flora; the twisted juniper and their edible berries, the sage and other plants used for medicinal purposes by the Navajo.

BLM has done an incredible job of installing and maintaining this area considering how little it appears to be used.

Otherwise we relaxed, enjoying the view until the wind kicked up. Bob dug out the barbecue and we had “Willamette Valley” chicken breasts wrapped in bacon (from the local market no less) with wild rice and steamed carrots topped off with a nice Warr King Rose’ from by brother and frozen Mochi for desert. This was the first major meal we cooked in the RV while being on the road. Glamping at it’s best!

It was Sunday and four other campers showed up which we found interesting as the weekend was winding down. They settled in, one was strumming on the guitar that drifted through the canyon along with the smell of campfires.

We saw a weather system coming in and heard rain on our roof later that night but woke up to the sun and warm coming over the indelible sandstone features of the Moab area.

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Category: Travel